Postcards from Paris
Where to stay, where to shop, what to see, and most importantly, what to eat.
Paris is a city visitors desperately want to get ‘right’ - ensuring they can see the Mona Lisa crowd-free and enjoy a perfect cappuccino at Cafe de Flore unaccompanied by influencers. I am here to reset your Paris expectations: the city is truly magical, you just have to work a little bit harder to chase that magic.
After 20 visits or so, I’ve finally found ‘my Paris’. It is critical to note: everyone’s Paris is different. This shouldn’t be the only list you consult - but one of many. I also urge everyone prioritize what they want to do the ‘most’ in Paris and earmark one amazing moment a day … maybe it is getting the freshest baguette at Mamiche and then the queue at the Louvre. Or maybe it is snagging a solo spot at Chez Georges and a stroll through Palais Royal after. Not every moment of every trip will be perfect - this is especially true in Paris. If you look past the TikTok hot chocolates, Paris will be a city you will want to go back to every few years to visit old friends and discover new ones.
The below is my curated list after years of trial and error, and a hyper fixation with following Parisians on social media. This is by no means exhaustive - but if you dress well, say bonjour whenever you enter a building, and pack an umbrella, you are sure to have a quintessential trip to Paris.
À bientôt!
Arrondissement Overview
Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements, or administrative districts, that spiral outward from the city center like a snail shell. Each one has its own distinct personality—from cinematic to calm, bohemian to buttoned-up. Here’s a quick guide to each, with a favorite stop in each:
1st – Regal and monumental. Think Louvre, Tuileries, and Palais Royal.
2nd – Full of arcades, creative studios, and indie shops.
3rd – Artsy and vibrant, home to the quieter side of the Marais.
4th – Historic and dynamic, with the Seine, Notre-Dame, and beloved bakeries.
5th – The Latin Quarter’s academic, literary charm.
6th – Elegant Left Bank, all cafés, florists, and Bon Marché.
7th – Chic, quiet, and full of museums and ministries.
8th – Grand boulevards, palaces, and upscale boutiques.
9th – South Pigalle and Grands Boulevards buzz with shops, theaters, and restaurants.
10th – Multicultural, canal-side, and always evolving.
11th – Creative core, packed with natural wine bars and design studios.
12th – Understated but charming. A local’s Paris.
13th – A blend of modernist towers, artists, and hidden gems.
14th – Residential and calm with hidden gardens and vintage shops.
15th – Functional and family-friendly. A taste of everyday Paris.
16th – Quiet luxury and grand old Paris.
17th – A local vibe with great architecture.
18th – Montmartre magic and street art.
19th – Creative and youthful with big parks.
20th – Edgy, artistic, and increasingly cool.
Where to Stay
Favorite Stays
Hôtel Duc de Saint-Simon – Old-world charm with toile and tassels. Think chintz everything with the world’s tiniest staircase. Appointed near Saint Germain this is a romantic hotel for solo travelers or couples.
Hôtel Rochechouart – Rooftop views and Pigalle charm. Rooms are Paris sized, aka very tiny (think not being about to open your suitcase) but this is a great price and fun location.
Grand Hôtel Mazarin – Glamorous in the Marais. I stayed here in October 2024 and loved the service and decor. I am not sure I would be a repeat guest as the 3rd is overrun at the moment and I would like to opt for something quieter. I would, however, return for the epic pool and extreme steam room situation.
Hotel Recaimer: another great option a stone’s throw from St. Germain - it is a charming boutique hotel in an old residence. Usually filled with regulars.
Hotel Florida – Relaxed, personal, and stylish. See the Yolo Journal edit on it here; not sure I can get behind staying somewhere with ‘Florida’ in the title while in Paris but c'est la vie!
Hotel Hana – Lovely and low-key.
Hôtel des Grands Boulevards – Great location, even better bar.
Grands Boulevards Experimental – Romantic design, rooftop cocktails, and consistently praised for location and charm.
Hotel Panache – A press favorite with quirky elegance and consistently good feedback.
Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs – Sleek interiors by Fabrizio Casiraghi in a perfect Left Bank spot.
Hotel 9Confidential - I’ve stayed here twice and never had a bad experience. The interiors can seem a bit chocolate box, but you cannot beat the 1 euro breakfast and location!
Worth the Splurge
Ritz Paris – Iconic and impeccably located, with walkable access to top sights and its own pastry shop. Rooms are spacious and romantic.
Le Bristol – Wins for food and people-watching during afternoon tea. More traditional than the Ritz, but beloved by regulars. The pool is modeled after the Titanic and a bucket list swim for me!
L’Hotel - world's first boutique hotel and last home of Oscar Wilde
Where I Am Staying Next
Chateau Voltaire: Tucked away in the heart of Paris, Château Voltaire is a dream. The hotel is designed by the architectural studio, Festen. Prime location in the heart of it all!
Cinabre Suites: A private street in the heart of Paris. A stay fashioned by a luxury Brand. Only two rooms of 1000 sq ft each available.
What to Eat
Eating in Paris can feel like a sport. I am here to tell you that it is hard to have a bad meal in Paris; avoid anything right near the typical tourist traps like the Champs-Élysées or Louvre. Avoid TikTok. That being said, if you care about what you eat (which I assume the Substack crowd does) you don’t want to miss out. The below list represents a high-low compilation of both classic French cuisine with can’t miss contemporary spots. While some people are against the ‘Brooklynization’ of some of Paris, particularly in the 10th and 19th, I’ve found all of these spots to be some of the best bites I’ve ever had. I think there is room for both the old guard and new guard. After all, isn’t that what Paris is all about?
Reserve Ahead
Talk to your concierge about getting these reservations set, or mark your calendar ahead of time! Some can be walked in right at opening but if I have my heart set on a dish I will make sure I get a reservation.
L’Auberge des Crus: It offers soulful, seasonal cuisine rooted in tradition. It’s where I go for a meal that feels like home.
La Rôtisserie d'Argent – Sunday roast chicken is the move. Reserve ahead for a meal along the Seine. Is it full of Americans? Yes. We still had a thoroughly enjoyable meal here in October 2024.
Cheval d’Or – The reservation to get right now. Asian cuisine meets French technique. Worth the foray to the 19th.
Mokonuts – Tiny and perfect for lunch. Save room for their delicious cookies!
Le Voltaire – Your white tablecloth moment in Paris. The wood paneled dining room is iconic. Order the sole meunière and chocolate mousse.
La Bourse et La Vie – Daniel Rose’s bistro fare.
La Poule au Pot / À l’Epi d’Or – Classic menus revived by Jean-François Piège. Another good one for your fancy, traditional night out.
Saint-Roch 19 – Super buzzy spot in the 1st. I would aim for lunch followed by some shopping.
Ogata – Japanese tea house, restaurant, and design haven. You can eat here or stop by to shop. The interiors are worth a visit alone!
Le Cornichon – A great contemporary and elegant bistro.
Fontaine de Mars – Charming and traditional.
Clamato – No reservations, but worth the wait. Fresh seafood small plates.
Oobatz - To die for pizza; this is my top spot to book for our next visit!
Classic Bistros
Chez Georges – Unfussy and eternally chic. A true Parisian spot, which I particularly love for lunch. The order is the table radishes, chèvre chaud, steak frites and tarte tatin. Book ahead or walk in right when they open. Dress well!
Le Bon Georges – A classic with updated fare, lovely ambiance, and a favorite among locals and travelers alike.
Chez L’Ami Jean – Bold flavors in a rustic, lively setting. Reserve for a hearty dinner.
Bistrot des Tournelles – A standout in the Marais, warm atmosphere and deliciously classic.
Bistrot Paul Bert – Known for its steak au poivre. Full of Americans but still worth the venture. Your hotel can book this for you!
Au Bon Coin – Local and comforting.
Chez L’Ami Louis – Decadent, retro, very French.
Café de Flore – More for people-watching than food, but iconic.
Modern & Wine-y
Early June – Rotating chefs in a spot right on Canal St. Martin; get here before 18:00 to queue for a one-of-a-kind meal with thoughtful wine pairings.
Cendrillon – A recent favorite for natural wine and lively ambiance.
Recoin – Intimate and easygoing; a relaxed natural wine bar.
Café du Coin – High-energy small plates and a cult favorite among locals.
Folderol – Ice cream and wine? Yes. Don’t miss the olive oil scoop.
Cloche – A tiny wine bar in the 2nd with great food and Art Deco interiors.
Vivant 2 – Wine-forward, cozy, and romantic; a solid date night choice.
Parcelles – The tiniest wine bar; somewhat odd hours. Would love a lunch here followed by shopping in Marais!
Lunch Stops
Le Chanceux - Non-bistro spot for breakfast or lunch
Olga Wine and Cheese - Creative yet simple sandwiches and desserts, curated wines and cheeses
Chez Aline - Some argue they have the best sandwiches in Paris, and I am some.
Caloche - This was recommended to us by the owner of La Tuile a Loup and we walked in right when they were finishing up family meal. This was an unassuming spot with a rotating menu - we enjoyed a cauliflower soup with vanilla bean oil and butternut squash lasagna. The meal was so perfect I am hesitant to recommend it!
UPDATE: It looks like this spot closed but the owner was from Café de la Nouvelle Mairie which I have not tried.
Le Caractère de Cochon – A must for jambon-beurre lovers. Tucked near Marché des Enfants Rouges, there is now a line for these sandwiches when you used to be able to walk in. Can confirm the line is worth it!
Kunitoraya – Unfussy, authentic udon in the 2nd. Always comforting and a local favorite.
Breizh Café – Beloved for its expertly made Breton-style crêpes in both sweet and savory forms. Great for a warm breakfast post red-eye with multiple locations
Marche des Enfants Rouges – Covered market with food stalls and lunch counters. We love the Les Enfants counter but it has become very hard to get a seat here as of late! I would aim to arrive early to avoid the crowds. In the winter they serve Mont d’Or warmed with a baguette and potatoes. Heaven.
Allard – Classic Left Bank bistro with history. Famous for their duck - I’ve heard mixed reviews on the food lately but it is usually easy to get a reservation.
Tekés – Vegetarian and great for groups. For when you need a vegetable abroad!
Chez Omar – Similar sentiment above, when you need a break from French food. North African food in the 3rd.
Cafe Charlot – Classic corner café. People love the burger but I love the people watching!
Coffee Stops
Dreamin' Man – Will walk out of the way for this coffee. We usually take the metro straight to this coffee shop, bags and all, upon arrival.
Telescope – Only open weekdays, worth planning for. Get a coffee and banana bread warmed before Palais Royale.
Ten Belles – Always solid. Their sourdough is out of this world!
The Ritz – For pastries, madeleines, and a quick bathroom break while shopping.
Cuppa Café - When you need a break after shopping along St Germain (that isn’t Cafe de Flore).
Sweets & Bakeries
Pralus – Brioche filled with pink pralines—my favorite pastry treat in the world. Get a small one and it will take you days to eat!
Mamiche – Beloved for pastries and baguette. A favorite with long lines and very worth the wait.
Don't order a "baguette," order a "tradition." Learn more about why here.
Le Boulangerie de la Tour – Elegant and classic bakery attached to La Tour d'Argent. Great for a breakfast pastry before a Seine-side stroll.
La Panifacture – I’m not a pain au chocolat person, but this is the best I’ve ever had. Don’t miss the focaccia and babka either.
Tapisserie – Go for the maple tart (Tarte à l'Érable).
Poilâne – Their brioche and apple tart are classics.
Atelier P1 – Don’t miss the croissant praliné.
Le Dalí at Le Meurice – Tea-time with pastries by Cédric Grolet.
Petite Île - Franco-Taiwanese pastries.
Cocktails
Cravan - cocktails and Rizzoli books.
Le Comptoir General - a really neat tiki bar hidden away near the canal.
Where to Shop
Bookstore to Browse:
Librairie Jousseaume – A storied bookstore in Galerie Vivienne with vintage charm and timeless titles.
A note on Shakespeare & Company: I absolutely adore this bookstore and if you have your heart set on it, it can still be magical. It is, however, quite popular now with a queue outside. This removes some of the magic for me. If you do go, head upstairs and see if someone is playing the piano in the attic space. I’ve sat here for up to an hour before reading and it is a wonderful respite.
Home & Design
Astier de Villatte – Ceramics and charm, especially at Christmas. I always pick up some pieces while in Paris!
Talmaris – Modern glassware and minimalist tabletop pieces.
Simrane – Block-printed fabrics for home and travel. Great prices!
La Tuile a Loup - an appointments only ceramics store favored by Ina Garten. They curate from artists all over France with limited edition drops.
Le Cabinet de Porcelaine – Handmade porcelain flowers. I am dying to get the porcelain radish.
L/Uniform – Canvas bags you can customize.
E. Dehillerin – The ultimate cookware pilgrimage where we buy our copper pots. I wouldn’t go unless you actually want to shop (and go in with a plan!)
Galerie Vauclair – Vintage French rattan at its finest.
Galerie Maeght - great spot for vintage posters and contemporary art at affordable prices.
Curiosities & Cultural Icons
Deyrolle – A Parisian institution for natural history curiosities, taxidermy, and a sense of wonder
Liwan - On the Left Bank, Liwan is another ideal place for gifts. Run by the delightful Christine Bergstrom and Dina Haida, it’s the Parisian version of an Aladdin’s Cave, boasting kaftans, satin slippers, Syrian soaps and kitchenware.
Si Tu Veux - A toy store out of a picture book
Charvin - where Picasso bought paint! We picked up watercolors for a present and they were a hit.
Department Stores
Le Bon Marché – The only department store that matters. Don’t miss La Grande Épicerie, its spectacular food hall.
Hermès – 17 Rue de Sèvres – MUST VISIT. Housed in the former pool of the Hotel Lutetia, this flagship features the Petit h collection (made from leather and silk remnants), a café, beauty counter, and a quiet bookstore.
Monoprix - French retail chain Parisians love.
Fashion
Sabbia Rosa – For the perfect made-in-France silk slip in blush and ivory.
Sento – An independent boutique with thoughtful, stylish pieces and accessories.
Husbands – Impeccably tailored menswear rooted in classic Parisian elegance.
Cinabre – Bold ties, scarves, and tailoring accessories with personality.
Dover Street Market – The Paris location of this cult multi-brand fashion destination.
Beige Habilleur – Selects rare and beautiful brands.
45R – Japanese denim and hand-dyed pieces in timeless cuts.
Merci – Concept shop for fashion, design, and the world’s chicest café.
L’Habilleur – Designer archive pieces at discounted prices.
Landline Paris – Understated, artistic womenswear in the 11th. Apparently the tomato knife is the item to get, and if you are lucky their adorable dog will be there to greet you!
Les Prairies de Paris – Iconic and newly revived French label known for effortless style.
Dries Van Noten – For the clothes, the lipsticks, and the setting.
Candice Fauchon – Feminine tailoring, quietly luxurious pajamas.
Charvet – The shirtmaker of dreams. I pick up neck scarves here and plan to get slippers and a cashmere scarf next!
Bode Paris – Embroidered heirlooms in a gorgeous space.
Lemaire - beautiful silhouettes and cult bags. I am particularly interested in a croissant bag…
Rue de Verneuil – For quiet, chic canvas bags.
Crimson Cashmere – Cozy and expertly curated.
Beauty & Apothecaries
Buly 1803 – The second floor at Le Bon Marché is the insider's secret, although I enjoy the location in the 3rd. The monogrammed lip balms make the perfect gifts.
City Pharma – Crowded, chaotic, and worth it. Make your list ahead of time!
Maison Bonnet - the Charvet of glasses
Bookstores & Paper Goods
Librairie Galignani - an amazing English language bookstore near Tuileries. Easy to miss with the lines for Angelina, but a lovely spot to browse!
Benneton Graveur – The chicest stationery in Paris.
Librairie 7L – Karl Lagerfeld’s bookstore.
Chantelivre – For children’s books and immersive kid spaces.
Delpire & co. - a tiny photography bookshop selling editions you won’t find elsewhere.
Yvon Lambert - art bookstore has an incredible range of titles, plus collectible Cy Twombly posters and Nathalie Du Pasquier prints.
Vintage & Antiques
Aldo Pallas Antiques - a very small antiques store with an amazing collection. They don’t ship!
AXS Design – Minimalist showroom in the 10th. I love their edit of antiques and dishware.
Em Archives – By appointment vintage reminiscent of Desert Vintage.
The Broken Arm – Avant-garde fashion meets café.
Blanche Patine: For lovers of vintage tableware—especially terre de fer—Blanche Patine is an essential stop.
Au Bon Marie – Vintage tabletop, flatware, and objects.
Specialty Food
Le Conservatoire des Hémisphères -A specialized tea emporium. More than a boutique, it’s a fully immersive experience. Giftable teas and teawares created by a former Officine Buly art director.
Barthélèmy - For fromagerie, aka cheese
Maille - mustard boutique. In the Japanese district near the Louvre
Épices Roellinger - a trove of spices sourced by a Michelin-starred chef
Alain Ducasse Chocolat: If chocolate is your thing.
Debauve & Gallais: where Marie Antoinette got her chocolates!
What to See
You will notice I don’t include a lot of the usual suspects below - Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Tuileries, etc. I assume you know those and if it is your first time you are planning on them. My hot take is that you will not enjoy the Louvre unless you have a keen sense for what you are looking it. You can have an amazing experience at smaller, less crowded museums and parks. I’ve included my favorite below.
Rodin Museum and Gardens – A sculpture museum like no other. Don’t skip the garden.
Musée Nissim de Camondo – A hauntingly beautiful home museum near Parc Monceau, frozen in time with Belle Époque furnishings.
Musée National Gustave Moreau – A richly atmospheric museum devoted to the Symbolist painter, filled with sketches, paintings, and his preserved apartment.
Place des Vosges – One of Paris's oldest and most beautiful squares, framed by elegant arcades and ideal for a quiet morning walk or picnic.
Palais Royal – A classic stop for architecture and quiet beauty. The gardens and black-and-white Colonnes de Buren make this a favorite for strolling or reading.
Galerie Vivienne – Echoes of Neoclassical Paris fill this stunning covered arcade, lined with bookstores, boutiques, and cafés under a glass roof.
Musée de l'Orangerie – Small, perfectly formed, and home to Monet’s giant water lily panels. Combine with a stroll through the Tuileries.
Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature – Not just for kids, this exquisitely designed museum is unlike anything I’ve seen. Like Deyrolle brought to life.
Hôtel de la Marine – A newly restored 18th-century palace on Place de la Concorde. Glamorous, richly detailed, and surprisingly peaceful.
Musée des Archives Nationales – Housed in the Hôtel de Soubise in the Marais, with a rotating mix of fascinating exhibits and historic interiors.
Musée Carnavalet – Dedicated to the history of Paris, recently renovated and a must-see for flâneurs. It is also free! I love the gardens here.
Bibliothèque Mazarine – France’s oldest public library, tucked away and quiet.
Notre Dame – Newly reopened!
Sainte-Chapelle – Jaw-dropping stained glass. Go for the morning light.
Assamblée Nationale – Recently reopened and worth a guided tour.
Palais Garnier – The opera house is gold-leafed and gleaming—tours are easy and rewarding. I am hoping to attend an opera here in November 2025!
Sacre Coeur + Montmartre – Crowded but still magical. Go early or late.
Parks
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont – A favorite among locals on sunny days. Steep hills, a dreamy lake island, and full-on picnic energy. Bring sneakers.
Coulée Verte – Paris’s original High Line. A lush, elevated path for strolling (not jogging!), with secret benches and lots of life.
Place des Vosges – The oldest square in Paris and still one of the prettiest—especially around 9am before the selfie sticks arrive.
Along the Seine – Wander, picnic, or dance along the banks. No agenda needed.
Bois de Boulogne & Bois de Vincennes – Leafy escapes on the edge of the city. Rent a rowboat or just go breathe.
Day Trips
Sometimes it’s worth leaving the city. These are special, book-ahead-worthy escapes less than two hours from Paris.
Le Doyenné – A breathtaking château where chef James Henry crafts farm-forward cuisine. Book early and stay overnight to enjoy the gardens and bar.
Giverny – Monet’s iconic home and gardens. Especially magical in spring.
Septime’s Datcha – A countryside extension of the beloved Paris restaurant. Rural elegance and perfect food.
Practical Tidbits
Greet Upon Entering – “Bonjour” when you enter, “Bonsoir” after 6pm. Always.
Fromagerie Beillevaire – It’s technically a cheese shop, but don’t leave without the demi-sel croquant butter. I bring it home in bulk—it’s that good.
Cash & Cards – Most places accept credit cards (except Amex), but small bills and coins help for markets and metro.
Safety & Pickpockets – Keep your phone stashed and be alert on metro lines 1, 4, and 12. If someone comes up to you on the street, ignore them.
Museum Closures – Many museums and shops close Mondays or Tuesdays.
Sunday & Monday Closures – A lot of restaurants and boutiques do, too. Plan ahead.
Victor Cabs Paris – €75 airport transfer, English-speaking, reliable. They also offer trips to Versailles, Giverny, Normandy, etc.
Le Bateau Français – Private boat on the Seine. Great for romantic evenings or group picnics.
Free Museum Sundays – On the first Sunday of the month, many museums are free. But some, like Musée Gustave Moreau, require timed reservations.
Paris Balade – Take a ride in a vintage Mercedes for a unique view of Paris or the countryside.
Suggested Reading
So fabulous. I am ready to go. How about a girls’ trip with you, Julie and me?